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  • Set the Table with Quince

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    The first time I met a quince, I was immediately smitten. There were plenty of beautiful apples around, but that box of quince enticed me with its sweet, exotic aroma. Could I possibly describe the complex fragrance? Why hadn’t I seen or tasted one before?

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  • Peak Phosphorous: Crisis in the Making or Radical Opportunity?

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  • “It tastes like…”

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  • Winter Bounty

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  • Know Your Local-i-tea

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  • Delivering the Goods in Windham County

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    Back in 2008, teacher Hans Estrin’s ecology students at The Putney School heard that rallying cry and launched a well-intentioned project: Take the surplus from the 3-acre garden at the private and progressive Putney School and donate it for lunches at the public Putney Central Elementary School, just down the hill. “It was a great idea!” says Hans. 

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  • Farmers' Kitchen—Vermont Vinegar

    Farmers' Kitchen—Vermont Vinegar

    Shelburne Orchards is located along the shores of Lake Champlain. The orchard has been in Nick Cowles’s family since the 1950s and he took it over in the 1970s.

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  • Last Morsel—From Farm to Spa

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Farmers' Kitchen—Vermont Vinegar

Nick Cowles
Nick Cowles

Written By

Megan J. Humphrey

Written on

November 28 , 2013

Shelburne Orchards is located along the shores of Lake Champlain. The orchard has been in Nick Cowles’s family since the 1950s and he took it over in the 1970s. Since then, Nick has expanded the number of apple varieties, has begun to grow peaches, and now produces pasteurized and unpasteurized apple cider, ginger cider, Ginger Jack (a nonalcoholic concentration of apple and ginger), cider doughnuts, apple brandy, and apple cider vinegar.

So far, the orchard has produced some 100 gallons of unpasteurized cider vinegar. The vinegar’s now been aged for two years in oak barrels and is ready to be consumed, although sold only at the orchard. “Cider that’s gone by, and apples at the end of the brandy distillation process, can be utilized in the vinegar,” Nick says. Terry Hotaling, Nick’s right-hand man for 35 years or so, built a separate “Vinegar House” right at the orchard to prevent smells and spores from affecting the production of the orchard’s cider, brandy, and other food products.

An ongoing public discussion continues about the value of pasteurized versus unpasteurized apple cider vinegar. Pasteurization exposes a food product to a higher temperature, which destroys certain microorganisms that can cause disease, unwanted fermentation, or spoiling. Unfiltered and unpasteurized apple cider vinegar contains the intact enzymes formed through the fermentation process. These living enzymes are largely responsible for the healing and restorative properties of vinegar. Although filtered vinegar is more appealing to the eye, the highest quality is left unfiltered and unpasteurized. Nutritionally more potent than the pasteurized varieties, it is also typically more expensive.

There have been claims that vinegar helps to maintain a healthy pH balance in our body. It’s also been said that it can be used as a hair conditioner, flea repellent, aftershave, sunburn relief, tooth whitener, and household cleaner. There are people who swear that it helps with allergies because it can reduce mucus and sinus congestion. Some folks use vinegar to fade age spots. And you can rub vinegar on your hands to get rid of the smell after chopping onions.

Besides drinking some of his own unpasteurized vinegar every day, Nick’s been perfecting his vinegar reduction sauces. After some pondering, he claims that his sauces taste “spicy, somewhat sweet and tangy, but not vinegary.”

About the Author

Megan J. Humphrey

Megan J. Humphrey

Megan J. Humphrey has worked seasonally at Shelburne Orchards for the past 10 years. She is responsible for special events and marketing. Megan also has her own line of greeting cards (Sweet Basil Cards) and directs HANDS, a nonprofit working to connect food with older Vermonters.


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Vermont's Local Banquet Magazine illuminates the connections between local food and Vermont communities. Our stories, interviews, and essays reveal how Vermont residents are building their local food systems, how farmers are faring in a time of great opportunity and challenge, and how Vermont’s agricultural landscape is changing as the localvore movement shapes what is grown and raised here.


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Home Stories Issues 2014 Winter 2014 | Issue 27 Farmers' Kitchen—Vermont Vinegar