• Publishers' Note—Winter 2016

    Publishers' Note—Winter 2016

    We think a lot about food here at Local Banquet. How it’s grown and who’s growing it and the practices that enhance and sustain our planet.

    Continue Reading

  • Set the Table with Bone Stock

    Set the Table with Bone Stock

    When Rebecca Wood and I were writing The Whole Bowl a couple of years ago, we had no idea that bone-based broths were just about to become the next biggest thing in food.

    Continue Reading

  • New Crops from New Americans

    New Crops from New Americans

    We eaters and fans of food love to share memories of delicious meals, tell the backstories of where our food came from, and follow the journeys our food has taken. But food itself tells many stories, just by appearing in a time and place.

    Continue Reading

  • A Plucky Issue

    A Plucky Issue

    When I was young, we visited my grandmother in Haverhill, Massachusetts every few months. She never cooked a meal with less than a cup of cream or a pound of butter. But of all of the rich and sumptuous meals I enjoyed at her house, roast duck is the one I remember best.

    Continue Reading

  • A Touching Separation

    A Touching Separation

    For the past eight years, calves at Greenfield Highland Beef in Greensboro and Plainfield have been permanently separated from their mothers through the process of “nose-to-nose weaning,” or “fenceline weaning.”

    Continue Reading

  • Ambassador Farmers

    Ambassador Farmers

    “These women came down—they call them ‘The Forest Women,’ women who plant on the edge of the mountain’s forests. Some walked for two hours! They’d never attended an educational workshop before…. It was pretty amazing.”

    Continue Reading

  • Icing the Apple

    Icing the Apple

    2015 was a banner year for apples. By early October, Vermont’s trees were bowed low with ripe fruit.

    Continue Reading

  • Five Years of Funding Farms

    Five Years of Funding Farms

    Early on a January morning in 2011, Pete Johnson of Pete’s Greens in Craftsbury heard a funny noise. When he looked out his window, he saw his barn engulfed in flames.

    Continue Reading

  • Farmers' Kitchen—Andean Agriculture

    Farmers' Kitchen—Andean Agriculture

    Located on the southern slope of Mt. Ascutney in Weathersfield, Cas-Cad-Nac Farm (CCNF) has been our home since 1995. A true labor of love, we originally purchased the property specifically for starting an alpaca-breeding operation.

    Continue Reading

  • Last Morsel—Wrap Local

    Last Morsel—Wrap Local

    Those of us who eat local food, diligently compost our kitchen scraps,  and use natural cleaners on our kitchen counters may feel a pang of guilt whenever we reach for a piece of plastic wrap or a plastic container in which to store our food.

    Continue Reading

Set the Table with Bone Stock

Set the Table with Bone Stock

Written By

Leda Scheintaub

Written on

November 24 , 2015

When Rebecca Wood and I were writing The Whole Bowl a couple of years ago, we had no idea that bone-based broths were just about to become the next biggest thing in food. Soon the liquid elixir would be dished out in coffee cups to hungry urban hipsters, bone broth delivery services would sprout up, and to prove how far people will go to milk a trend, a $22 bone broth cocktail was introduced in Los Angeles.

But bone broth, or stock, has ancient roots and numerous health benefits, guaranteeing that it will outlast any trendiness. (We call our recipe bone stock rather than broth, and while I’ll leave the debate on the distinctions to various food blogs, know that if the word bone is in the title, bones are what this incredibly healing food will be based on.)

Rebecca Wood, author of the Whole Foods Encyclopedia, introduced me to bone stock a decade or so ago; it took me a few years to get into a stock-making groove, but once I did, there was no turning back. The chef in me loves stock as an elevated ingredient, an instant upgrade to any savory recipe. And stock appeals to my affinity for traditional foods, as this deeply nourishing, mineral-rich liquid boasts anti-inflammatory, immune-boosting, and gut-boosting benefits. As Rebecca says, there’s good reason why traditional chicken soup is fondly dubbed “Grandma’s penicillin.”

While folks in New York City are lining up around the block to purchase cups of what their grandmothers made from kitchen scraps, many of us in Vermont are going the local, DIY route. We are learning that tossing the carcass from a roasted chicken into a pot is one of the simplest and most economical ways to start a stock, and we fill our freezer with bones until we have enough to make a potful.

Our stock recipe, based on the one from The Whole Bowl, shows you how easy it is to make your own; don’t think of these as hard-and-fast instructions but rather as guidelines to get you into the kitchen making stock. From there it’s hard to go wrong, as it’s not an exact science but little more than tossing some bones into a pot, adding water, and simmering away.

With cold and flu season in full swing now, you can use your stock to make Cold Quell Soup, a healing tonic containing yams, fresh ginger, and plenty of pungent mustard greens. It’s one of the simplest recipes in The Whole Bowl, yet a profoundly healing one.

Stock-Making Tips:

The best gelling occurs when some cartilage-rich knuckles and/or hooves or chicken feet are included; for added flavor and nutrients, use shanks or other marrow bones.

The longer you cook the bones, the more minerals are extracted and the more the stock will gel, a sign of a gelatin-rich stock. However, excessive cooking and/or high heat may result in a thin stock (as the gelatin chains become shorter with overcooking). Not to worry; whether or not it gels, your stock will be both delicious and healing.

There’s no “master” recipe or perfect timing for stock making; the point is to make the recipe work for you and your schedule. If you’re uncomfortable leaving the pot on the stove while you sleep or are away from home, go with the slow cooker option. A little vinegar or wine added to your stock acts as a solvent to extract nutrients.

Salt helps draw minerals from the bones and boosts the stock’s flavor and shelf life. Depending on how much salt you add, reduce the amount of salt accordingly in the written recipes in which you use your stock.

To increase flavor, roast your bones before tossing them into the stockpot.

Add meat scraps to heighten flavor and nutrition.

Reuse your bones for a second or even third batch of stock, until they crumble when you press on them.

Add vegetables during the last few hours of cooking so they don’t disintegrate and toss them out at the end, as all their flavor and nutrients will have transferred to the stock.

Mix and match seasonings to create your own signature stocks. My two favorites are turmeric-ginger and rosemary-tomato.

About the Author

 Leda Scheintaub

Leda Scheintaub

Leda Scheintaub is the author of Cultured Foods for Your Kitchen: 100 Recipes Featuring the Bold Flavors of Fermentation (Rizzoli, 2014). She is also the author, with Whole Foods Encyclopedia author Rebecca Wood, of The Whole Bowl: Gluten-Free, Dairy-Free Soups and Stews (Countryman Press, 2015). You can visit her at ledaskitchen.com. Leda and her husband, Nash Patel, run Dosa Kitchen, a farm-to-food Indian truck based in Brattleboro; visit dosakitchen.com.

Leave a comment

You are commenting as guest. Optional login below.

What we do

A quarterly magazine devoted to covering local food, sustainable farming, and the many people building the Vermont food system.

Vermont's Local Banquet Magazine illuminates the connections between local food and Vermont communities. Our stories, interviews, and essays reveal how Vermont residents are building their local food systems, how farmers are faring in a time of great opportunity and challenge, and how Vermont’s agricultural landscape is changing as the localvore movement shapes what is grown and raised here.

Connect

Sign up for quarterly notifications and issue highlights.
Please wait