• Editor's Note Spring 2014

    Editor's Note Spring 2014

    Every now and then, I wonder what life would be like without any small farms. If Vermont’s diversified farmers were to pack up and sell out. If there were no longer a neighborhood farmers’ market to wander through on a Saturday morning. If those of us who regularly buy local food had to go back to fondling Chilean apples and freakishly large carrots at the grocery store.

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  • Set the Table with Dandelion Greens

    Set the Table with Dandelion Greens

    I’ve spent years walking past any dandelion greens I see for sale, on the grounds that I will not pay for something that’s growing everywhere I look all spring and summer. Granted, I never stop to pick those free dandelion leaves, so inevitably, a vegetable that I won’t buy because it’s too common ends up not being at all common on my plate. It’s the Dandelion Paradox. This past winter, I wanted to unravel it.

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  • Think Globally, Dine Locally

    Think Globally, Dine Locally

    Last year I was excited when the Burlington-based weekly Seven Days published an insert featuring restaurants participating in Vermont Restaurant Week. I couldn’t wait to sample dishes from some of the highly touted localvore eateries I’d read about since moving to Vermont three years earlier.
    When I opened up the insert, however, the number of advertisements featuring photos of hamburgers and fries surprised me.

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  • Fired Up on Local

    Fired Up on Local

    Given that chile peppers—the main ingredient in hot sauce—are relatively easy to grow in Vermont, it’s possible to make hot sauce a highly localvore product. But that doesn’t mean it’s easy. Ben Maniscalco, who launched Benito’s Hot Sauce in 2009, goes out of his way to source ingredients from local farms.

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  • Flourishing in the Fields

    Flourishing in the Fields

    Tucked into a scenic hillside just off of Route 5 in Westminster is Kurn Hattin Homes for Children. Founded 120 years ago, Kurn Hattin is a charitable year-round home for boys and girls from around the Northeast whose families—for whatever reason—are unable to care for them.

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  • Horticultural Therapy

    Horticultural Therapy

    The day is warm and clear. I am in my work uniform, which consists of shorts and a tank top; this is all I can stand to put on, for the heat of early summer is strong upon us. My supervisor, an elderly woman who needs the assistance of a walker to get around, is wearing a light sweater and long pants. “Aren’t you cold?” she asks suspiciously, as she watches me turn the soil in a bed designated for the season’s heirloom tomatoes.

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  • Fields, with Geese

    Fields, with Geese

    In an email sent just before our first date, in February of 2013, Wesley Bascom posed a multiple-choice question. “Are you interested in serving goose...?” he asked. The choices he provided for my response were: a) “Totally down to pluck!” b) “Maybe. I will take a gander at it.” c) “Foie gras? More like foie naw.”

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  • From Nano to Micro

    From Nano to Micro

    The day I went out to visit Bret Hamilton’s new microbrewery, Stone Corral, on idyllic Taft Road in Huntington, the 32-degree weather felt downright balmy. It was early January, and we’d just had one of the coldest snaps I’d ever felt in Vermont—wind chills down in the 30-below range.

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  • The Thorny Issue of Farmer Pay

    The Thorny Issue of Farmer Pay

    At a wedding last summer, I sat next to a neighbor who buys her Thanksgiving turkey from our farm. She described her daily drive-by dose of the farm, and her ritual of slowing down to see where the goats, pigs, and poultry had been moved. She said, “I’ve gotten to the point I think I should pay a toll to pass your place!” I joked, “In order for us to survive it might come to that!”  The conversation awkwardly fell off. But it has preoccupied me since.

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  • Farmers' Kitchen—Planet Pollinators

    Farmers' Kitchen—Planet Pollinators

    As I look out my window in early January at my beehives, I’m in awe of how bees do what they do. The temperature is well below zero, the wind is blowing, and snow is falling. Yet if I bundle up to brave the elements, go outside, and put my ear against the side of one of the hives, I can hear the low rumble of my bees.

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  • Good Food, Good Health

    Good Food, Good Health

    I’m a farmer, and my favorite place in Vermont is a farm—one that has a surprise at its core. The surprise isn’t the lovely old farmhouse on the property or the 11 acres of organically farmed vegetables, but the fact that the farm and its bounty are part and parcel of my doctor’s office: Sojourns Community Health Clinic in Westminster.

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Editor's Note Spring 2014

Sugaring 1974 Barre, VT
Sugaring 1974 Barre, VT

Written on

February 19 , 2014

Every now and then, I wonder what life would be like without any small farms. If Vermont’s diversified farmers were to pack up and sell out. If there were no longer a neighborhood farmers’ market to wander through on a Saturday morning. If those of us who regularly buy local food had to go back to fondling Chilean apples and freakishly large carrots at the grocery store.
I know, it’s a bleak scenario—but don’t put down the magazine! This isn’t going to happen anytime soon, if ever. Our farms are getting stronger by the day, with many great minds working on issues of farm viability, farmer health, soil regeneration, fair food policy, and land affordability. In many ways, it’s a very exciting time to be a farmer, with all the intellectual inquiry and support.
The problem is that the majority of the public may not be aware that threats to the small farmer are very real.
One major threat is low-profit margin, as farmer Mari Omland points out on page 22 of this issue. If farmers are unable to save for retirement, pay for their children’s education, or afford decent health care, will they continue to farm? Other threats include physical burnout, being able to stay on (afford) one’s land, navigating government regulations, and handling new challenges brought by climate change.
It seems to me that we who buy local food should be aware of what small farmers are up against; if so, we might think of some creative ideas for how we can support them, beyond just engaging in a monetary transaction. Farmers are the last people to ask for help and are the most resilient people in our communities. But remember the old-time “husking bees,” when neighbors turned out to shuck a farmer’s entire corn harvest? What fun, and what a contribution.
Greater awareness of what farmers are facing could also lead consumers to more easily accept some of the “high” prices and apparent inconveniences that come with buying local. We might even start dabbling in citizen lobbying or community organizing to spark policy change that strengthens the lives of small farmers.
We at Local Banquet are interested in addressing some of the thornier issues now facing Vermont farmers and the local food movement—issues that can get obscured by delight over August tomatoes or the sight of Jersey cows in a spring meadow. If the public doesn’t know what’s threatened, how can they be asked to safeguard it?
Of course, as the magazine looks at these tough issues more closely, we’ll keep bringing you the tasty stories, too, and the illuminating ones. Inspiration will always be our main ingredient.
It’s easy to take local food for granted, but at the end of the day, that food is on our plate because somebody decided to farm—and farm responsibly. Let’s do what we can to keep them farming.
                    —Caroline Abels

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A quarterly magazine devoted to covering local food, sustainable farming, and the many people building the Vermont food system.

Vermont's Local Banquet Magazine illuminates the connections between local food and Vermont communities. Our stories, interviews, and essays reveal how Vermont residents are building their local food systems, how farmers are faring in a time of great opportunity and challenge, and how Vermont’s agricultural landscape is changing as the localvore movement shapes what is grown and raised here.

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