• Editor's Note Fall 2013

    Editor's Note Fall 2013

    It’s a fulsome time to be an eater of local meat in Vermont—or simply a booster of its production. Compared with three years ago, when our last special issue on meat came out, you can now access more products from more farmers growing a wider variety of animals in more varying ways.

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  • Putting the Garden to Bed

    Putting the Garden to Bed

    There are many distractions at this time of year, whether school or watching football or catching up on work and e-mail after an August vacation. But one thing’s for sure: autumn—and winter—are coming, and we need to put our gardens to bed. A little extra work now will help us garden even better next year.

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  • How to Get Grounded

    How to Get Grounded

    On a road in Cabot, not far from the land that Laura Dale and Cyrus Pond bought this past March, you can look out to the west at a horizon dominated by the undulating spine of the Green Mountains. For many young farmers in Vermont, the cost of land can seem as daunting and insurmountable as the largest of those mountains in the dead of winter.

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  • Set the Table with Local Meat for a Crowd

    Set the Table with Local Meat for a Crowd

    When you’re committed to eating humanely raised, local meat and you’re getting some friends together for some good eats, chances are you’re not going to throw 15 $20 steaks on your backyard barbecue. We all might like to pretend that we just won the lottery, but it’s no easy feat to blow a whole paycheck serving humane, sustainable food to our nearest and dearest.

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  • Meet the Meat Hubs

    Meet the Meat Hubs

    A year ago, Bryce and Debbie Gonyea were operating a small hog farm in Danville, selling their pigs to Vermont Salumi and private customers, in addition to selling young piglets for families to raise for their own consumption. Bryce had recently retired from three-and-a-half decades in the agricultural insurance business and was creating a stream of retirement income through farming.

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  • Pastured Poultry in Aisle 9

    Pastured Poultry in Aisle 9

    Whiz by it on Route 2 between Richmond and Bolton and you might think it was an abandoned rail car, a housing unit for migrant farm workers, or a storage shed. Bland and inconspicuous, the boxy structure doesn’t look like it has the potential to re-shape Vermont’s local food scene (or at least make it easier to purchase and cook pastured chicken).

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  • Über-Pastured Pork

    Über-Pastured Pork

    There are 70 acres in West Topsham where about 400 pigs harvest their own kale (and garlic, when they’re feeling under the weather), go for rides in mini-vans, and bathe in mountain wallows. They’re about to stop that mini-van habit, but more on that later.

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  • Randall Cattle

    Randall Cattle

    At the beginning of the 20th century, as Halley’s Comet graced Vermont skies, Samuel Randall could be found tending a herd of lineback cattle on his farm in Sunderland, Vermont. The type of cattle he kept had fallen out of favor as farmers began selectively breeding for specific traits and standardization. But over decades—until the 1980s—and in virtual isolation, Samuel and his son Everett unknowingly preserved this “landrace” herd.

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  • Cannibalizing our Compatriots

    Cannibalizing our Compatriots

    Vermont has big farms and little farms, organic and conventional growers, pasture-based and feedlot operations, old farmers and young farmers, entrepreneurs and large agribusinesses. In these Green Mountains and across this country we have a complex food production system, with each agricultural business doing what it can to stay viable and profitable.

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  • Farmers' Kitchen—Grass=Solar Energy=Good Meat

    Farmers' Kitchen—Grass=Solar Energy=Good Meat

    My husband, Bruce Hennessey, and I moved to an end-of-the-road, hilltop farm in Huntington in 1999 for a “close-to-the-mountains” farming opportunity. The hilltop nature of our 136 acres made it challenging for growing crops or making hay (steep, too many rocks, some wet areas), so grazing livestock seemed like the answer to keeping the pastures open, fertilized, and healthy.

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  • Last Morsel—A Boost for On-Farm Slaughter

    Last Morsel—A Boost for On-Farm Slaughter

    Traditionally, farm animals in Vermont were slaughtered and butchered outside, in the open air. Today, all animals that are sold as meat must be slaughtered and processed in inspected facilities. But some Vermonters who raise animals for their own personal consumption prefer on-farm slaughter to taking their critters to an unfamiliar slaughterhouse.

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Editor's Note Fall 2013

Apple press, Weathersfield; photo by Meg Lucas.

Written By

Caroline Abels

Written on

August 19 , 2013

It’s a fulsome time to be an eater of local meat in Vermont—or simply a booster of its production. Compared with three years ago, when our last special issue on meat came out, you can now access more products from more farmers growing a wider variety of animals in more varying ways. The meat is almost always raised differently from the industrial model, you can almost always visit the farm if you want to, and what is sold is pretty much always tastier than what emerges from factory farms.

At my local food co-op, for instance, I can now buy two kinds of hot dogs from regional farmers, one of whom is profiled in this issue (Walter Jeffries of Sugar Mountain Farm, page 18). There’s Certified Humane bacon sourced from Quebec and New Hampshire, a slew of local beef options, and Vermont-pastured chicken sold in parts (see story on page 16).

Elsewhere, farmers are selling rabbits, goats, Guinea hens, lamb, pastured veal, and even alpaca meat. Although the numbers are still small, Vermont poultry and livestock farmers have created a solid foundation on which to grow.
What’s more, the number of people putting their minds to the nagging, thorny bottlenecks in local meat production has grown. One of the most active steering committees to emerge from the Farm to Plate initiative is the Meat Processing Task Force, which meets regularly. Individual foundations and donors are looking into how to fund new or existing slaughter facilities. A highly successful New England Meat Conference was organized this year by Vermont’s own Chelsea Bardot Lewis of the Vermont Agency of Agriculture and Sam Fuller of NOFA-VT. Important and practical research on grazing and livestock management is being undertaken by the UVM Center for Sustainable Agriculture’s Pasture Program. And membership in the Vermont Meat and Poultry Processors’ Association is on the upswing.

We still have a long way to go if we’re going to “displace” commodity meat on store shelves (to use a term favored by local food problem-solver Sean Buchanan, who writes a thought-provoking essay on page 22). But we should be encouraged by the fact that a couple of years ago, places like the Mad River Food Hub and Black River Produce’s new meat-processing facility didn’t even exist (see story on page 14.) Who knows what’s around the bend?

As we head down that road, we should all enjoy the emerging bounty. In these early days of fall (or waning days of summer, depending on your perspective), fire up the grill a few last times, gather up some friends, and cook up some beautiful local meat (perhaps using the recipes on page 12)! Be thankful we can be nourished by animals who were raised well, on land tended with respect, by farmers who truly care.
      

 —Caroline Abels

About the Author

Caroline Abels

Caroline Abels

Caroline Abels is the editor of Local Banquet and the founder-editor of Humaneitarian.org, a website that inspires people to buy and eat humanely raised meat.

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A quarterly magazine devoted to covering local food, sustainable farming, and the many people building the Vermont food system.

Vermont's Local Banquet Magazine illuminates the connections between local food and Vermont communities. Our stories, interviews, and essays reveal how Vermont residents are building their local food systems, how farmers are faring in a time of great opportunity and challenge, and how Vermont’s agricultural landscape is changing as the localvore movement shapes what is grown and raised here.

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